Saturday, November 10, 2012

History of Batik Gagrak Surakarta

Motif/patterns of Bathik Gagrak Surakarta are created because there is intent and philosophical message and meaning of the teaching or guidance and also a characteristic of class strata of society who wearing it.

The style of Bathik Gagrak Surakarta in general different from the pattern of the other regions, both in terms of image, ornaments and a relatively dark color. Bathik Gagrak Surakarta related to meaning, motive and growing period. Each motif bathik color philosophy of Surakarta contains messages, teachings and position (social strata) for the users.

Bathik Gagrak very closely related to the Giyanti agreement signed at Giyanti village in 1755 AD. In negotiations resulted in an agreement, that is divided into two regions Mataram.  Most become Surakarta Sultanate of Mataram area under the leadership of His Majesty  Sampeyandalem Ingkang Sinuhun Kangjeng Susuhunan Senopati Ing Ngalaga Abdurrahman Sayidin Panatagama Pakoe Boewono Kaping III (PB.III).

Partly into the region Ngayogjakarta Mataram Sultanate lead by Ngarsadalem Ingkang Sinuhun Kangjeng Sultan Hamengku Boewono Senopati Ing Ngalaga Kalifatullah Abdurrahman Sayidin Panatagama (KP. Mangkubumi also the uncle of PB III).

Of the region splits, then continuing on the division of property in the form of royal heritage, gamelan, train ride and a stretcher/'joli'/'kremun' splited into two parts but the royal uniform of Mataram overall brought by KP. Mangkubumi to Jogjakarta. Refered before the devided of Mataram, and PB.III not become as a King, PB. II (father of PB.III) already given testament to PB. III.

"Mbesok manawa uncle Mangkubumi hangersakake ageman, paringno" it means
"if someday your uncle wants Mangkubumi clothing, give it '.

Since the split, Mataram Surakarta palace that has no unique fashion style of the royal, until then Pakoe Boewono III (as a King) ordered the staff to make clothing patterns. The pattern of bathik gagrak Surakarta is growing very rapidly, but it eventually impacts; decreasing the content of cultural values ​​bathik and order in the use of fabrics bathik become blurred, which include: fabric bathik at designated Nobles and Kawula become unclear.

Therefore then Pakoe Boewono III issued a policy on the use of fabric bathik order, in order to sensitize the community will contain patterns of cultural value bathik: “Ana dene kang arupa jejarit kang kalebu laranganningsun, bathik sawat, bathik parang lan bathik cemukiran kang calacap modang, bangun tulak, lenga teleng lan tumpal, apa dene bathik cemukiran kang calacap lung – lungan, kang sun wenangake anganggoa pepatihingsun lan sentananingsun dene kawulaningsun padha wedia”.

Which means: "There are several types of batik cloth into my ban, bathik Lar, bathik Parang and bathik Cemukiran that have shape like a bird's beak Orioles,  bangun tulak lenga teleng and form of tumpal and also bathik cemukiran ujung lung (leaf of plants that spread in land), which I was allowed to wear Patih and my Family. While the subjects not be permitted ".

Of this policy Bathik Gagrak Surakarta start so the order of dress in the Java community life, (especially earth Surakarta Sultanate of Mataram or now known as Surakarta/Solo).