Saturday, November 10, 2012

History of Batik Gagrak Surakarta

Motif/patterns of Bathik Gagrak Surakarta are created because there is intent and philosophical message and meaning of the teaching or guidance and also a characteristic of class strata of society who wearing it.

The style of Bathik Gagrak Surakarta in general different from the pattern of the other regions, both in terms of image, ornaments and a relatively dark color. Bathik Gagrak Surakarta related to meaning, motive and growing period. Each motif bathik color philosophy of Surakarta contains messages, teachings and position (social strata) for the users.

Bathik Gagrak very closely related to the Giyanti agreement signed at Giyanti village in 1755 AD. In negotiations resulted in an agreement, that is divided into two regions Mataram.  Most become Surakarta Sultanate of Mataram area under the leadership of His Majesty  Sampeyandalem Ingkang Sinuhun Kangjeng Susuhunan Senopati Ing Ngalaga Abdurrahman Sayidin Panatagama Pakoe Boewono Kaping III (PB.III).

Partly into the region Ngayogjakarta Mataram Sultanate lead by Ngarsadalem Ingkang Sinuhun Kangjeng Sultan Hamengku Boewono Senopati Ing Ngalaga Kalifatullah Abdurrahman Sayidin Panatagama (KP. Mangkubumi also the uncle of PB III).

Of the region splits, then continuing on the division of property in the form of royal heritage, gamelan, train ride and a stretcher/'joli'/'kremun' splited into two parts but the royal uniform of Mataram overall brought by KP. Mangkubumi to Jogjakarta. Refered before the devided of Mataram, and PB.III not become as a King, PB. II (father of PB.III) already given testament to PB. III.

"Mbesok manawa uncle Mangkubumi hangersakake ageman, paringno" it means
"if someday your uncle wants Mangkubumi clothing, give it '.

Since the split, Mataram Surakarta palace that has no unique fashion style of the royal, until then Pakoe Boewono III (as a King) ordered the staff to make clothing patterns. The pattern of bathik gagrak Surakarta is growing very rapidly, but it eventually impacts; decreasing the content of cultural values ​​bathik and order in the use of fabrics bathik become blurred, which include: fabric bathik at designated Nobles and Kawula become unclear.

Therefore then Pakoe Boewono III issued a policy on the use of fabric bathik order, in order to sensitize the community will contain patterns of cultural value bathik: “Ana dene kang arupa jejarit kang kalebu laranganningsun, bathik sawat, bathik parang lan bathik cemukiran kang calacap modang, bangun tulak, lenga teleng lan tumpal, apa dene bathik cemukiran kang calacap lung – lungan, kang sun wenangake anganggoa pepatihingsun lan sentananingsun dene kawulaningsun padha wedia”.

Which means: "There are several types of batik cloth into my ban, bathik Lar, bathik Parang and bathik Cemukiran that have shape like a bird's beak Orioles,  bangun tulak lenga teleng and form of tumpal and also bathik cemukiran ujung lung (leaf of plants that spread in land), which I was allowed to wear Patih and my Family. While the subjects not be permitted ".

Of this policy Bathik Gagrak Surakarta start so the order of dress in the Java community life, (especially earth Surakarta Sultanate of Mataram or now known as Surakarta/Solo).

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

The Motif of Batik Parang, Lereng and Cemukiran

Batik Parang and Lereng
This motifs in Surakarta palace including official uniforms palace, and who may wear only the King and His Son. The word "Parang" a change of the word "Pereng" or the edge of a cliff in the form of "Lereng" as low flatness of the plateau that forms a diagonal line. Taking a basic overview of the cliff southern coastal area of ​​the island of Java, which is named Paranggupito, Parangkusumo,  Parangtritis and etc.

The differences in patterns Bathik Parang and Lereng:
A. Characteristic feature of Bathik Parang:
  • 45° diagonal slope shape, 
  • Wearing 'Mlinjon',
  • Wearing 'Sujen',
  • Therehave 'Gareng's eyes'.

B. The characteristic feature of Bathik Lereng:
  • 45° diagonal sloping shape, 
  • Not always wear 'Mlinjon', 'Sujen' , 'Gareng's eyes',
  • Limited only by straight lines,
  • Could wear motif of 'Lung-lungan' or combination with Parangan form called 'Glebegan'.

Bathik Parang already growing before the establishment of the kingdom of Mataram Kartasura is:
  • Parang Rusak,
  • Parang Barong
  • Parang Rusak Barong,
  • Parang Kusumo,
  • Parang Pamor,
  • Parang Klithik,
  • etc.

As for Bathik Lereng were already known, among others:
  • Lereng Glebegan,
  • Lereng Thathit,
  • Lereng Sobrah,
  • etc.

Bathik Lereng original pattern of Surakarta is a pattern Bathik Lereng named "Udan Riris" and appeared in the reign of PB. III mid eighteenth century. The background of the birth of this motif is a form of concern after Mataram Surakarta split in two. (Between Yogyakarta and Surakarta) and one of its effects is not a regular rule conditions, there are still many improvements and concern. At that time the NT. III implementof 'teteki', one of which is bathing in the river flowing Premulung, Laweyan village near the tomb of his ancestors (Kyai Ageng Anis / parents Ki Ageng Pemanahan). In the 'teteki' he lit the 'teplok' lamp (lamp outboard) and at that moment a sudden drizzle. Incident that inspired him create patterns bathik "Udan Riris".

Bathik Cemukiran.
This motif is usually used for this type of headband or called 'udheng/dhestar' or better known as 'Blangkon'. This pattern line-shaped edge/periphery bathik with plain field called 'modang'. Bathik images adorn this pattern is the flame that implies the power to dampen greedy, it contains the teachings of that before we can defeat the enemy from outside should be able to defeat the enemy that comes from yourself (lust). This motif evolved during the PB. III and should only be used Pepatihdalem and Sentanadalem.